How To Take A Good Selfie : Some tips to consider for selfie
How To Take A Good Selfie : Some tips to consider for selfie
1. Lighting is Everything
It sounds obvious, but the first rule of selfie-ing is to pay attention to your lighting. You need good lighting. Natural lighting. As vlogger Jordan Liberty puts it, "Light is undoubtedly the best beauty product you don't have to pay for." Instead of facing your computer screen or television, turn toward a window with natural light. Or better yet, go outside and bask in the sun's glow (with sunscreen on). Good lighting can actually make undereye circles and shadows totally disappear.
If you're shooting your selfie inside, beauty blogger (and frequent selfie-taker) Michelle Phan advises that you find a window. "Having nice, natural sunlight streaming in will make for a good selfie. Another thing I do is take a piece of white paper and hold it underneath my chin, which creates a natural bounce of light, illuminates the face, and also reduces the double-chin effect."
2. Take a Lot of Selfies...and We Mean A LOT
Kylie Jenner's best selfie tip is just to take selfies. A lot of selfies. She's said that she takes "like, 500 selfies" before she finds one she likes enough to post. "Sometimes I regret putting one up if I find a better one later. I'm like damn, that's a better photo, but that's the only thing I regret," she has said. Try tilting your head in different directions and changing the angles up slightly between each shot so there's a wide variety to choose from. And don't forget to make sure the camera's focused before snapping away.
You can film your selfie session instead of taking standard pictures. Press record on the video option instead and pose away. After a minute or two of this, you can scroll through the video and freeze a frame with the best selfie. It sounds silly, but you can actually pull out the best selfie poses this way (and no one will ever know the difference!).
3. Show Yourself in Water
Float on your back in a pool and shoot down at your face. Or prepare a bubble bath, lie down in the water, and take a shot of your face framed by bubbles. Be careful, though, not to drop your phone!Showing yourself in water can be really fun, and it also makes the photo more unique than the typical point-the-camera-at-me-while-eating-a-cheeseburger selfie.
4. Selfie of the Selfie
One really fun idea that I haven't seen very often is to have someone take a picture of you taking a selfie. It's a really flattering look and is really interesting. If you're buying a selfie stick, I happen to really like this selfie stick from Improve Photography because it's well built
5. A self-portrait that looks professionally
Sometimes we don’t want others to know that we have taken a photo of ourselves. In these cases, it is nice to be able to discreetly take a self-portrait that looks professionally done. Whether you want a professional-looking photo for social media, professional sites, or personal use, it can be helpful to know a few hints for getting a self-portrait that looks like it was taken by someone else. That’s why I’ve compiled a few hints for you to use in order to get a fantastic self-portrait.
black and white self portrait
“Self Portrait II” captured by Melissa Rowat (Click image to see more from Rowat.)
Self-Timer
Try using the self timer on your camera instead of depending on the length of your arm. This way, your face will be much more relaxed during the photo (you won’t be straining your arm!), and you can get a wider range of view in the photo. If you can afford it, a remote shutter release is even better.
6. Scenery
An easy way to spot a self-portrait is by noting the background of a photograph. Many people take photographs of themselves in their bedroom or other areas of the home. The problem is that most of these areas contain clutter and other objects that might distract from the subject of the photo. To solve this issue, you can use two different approaches.
outdoor self portrait
“Self Portrait 4” captured by Shovona Karmakar (Click image to see more from Karmakar.)
If you want to take photos in your home, try to hang a plain-colored sheet somewhere in an uncluttered area. You can then use the sheet as a backdrop for your self-portrait. For best results, hang the sheet so that a foot or two of the material can cover the floor, thus creating a seamless background from the floor to the wall.
Otherwise, the best solution would probably be to go somewhere besides the home to take a self-portrait. A local park is a wonderful place to take photos, and you’ll have lovely scenery behind you instead of the inside of your room.
How to Pose for Pictures
How to Pose for Pictures- Get Tips while you click picture from camera or Phone device what you have to care about pose and all things
1.Learn to Smile for the Camera
Smiling is a tricky thing when it comes to photos. Too big, and you look silly, but none at all can make you look broody or angry. The solution? The ‘natural’ smile you so often do when the camera’s not on you.
Smiling too wide on purpose will cause your face to tense up, your eyes to squint, and your cheeks to puff out, which aren’t the benchmarks of an attractive photo. Instead, take a beat to relax your face and open your mouth slightly, so that your lower lip matches the curve of your upper teeth. This is universally flattering, and allows you to decide how much teeth you want to show. Not a fan of smiling with teeth? Learn to smize (smile with your eyes, for the non-Tyra followers).
One thing to note: When you smile naturally, the area around your eyes tends to crease a bit, which reads as much more sincere than stiffly smiling just with your mouth.
2. Shoot every day
The best way to hone your skills is to practice. A lot. Shoot as much as you can – it doesn’t really matter what. Spend hours and hours behind your camera. As your technical skills improve over time, your ability to harness them to tell stories and should too.
Don’t worry too much about shooting a certain way to begin with. Experiment. Your style – your ‘voice’ – will emerge in time. And it will be more authentic when it does. — Leah Robertson
Leah Robertson is a super talented Melbourne based photographer and videographer, specialising in music and documentary photography.You can see her work here.
Leah Robertson is a super talented Melbourne based photographer and videographer, specialising in music and documentary photography.You can see her work here.
3. See the light
Before you raise your camera, see where the light is coming from, and use it to your advantage. Whether it is natural light coming from the sun, or an artificial source like a lamp; how can you use it to make your photos better? How is the light interacting with the scene and the subject? Is it highlighting an area or casting interesting shadows? These are all things you can utilise to make an ordinary photo extraordinary.
4. Cross Your Ankles
If you’re being shot head-on (maybe for a street style snap?) cross your legs, starting at the calf. This stance will make your hips look narrower and your legs look longer, plus it looks a bit more casual. It’s worth noting that the pose also works when you’re sitting. Although it’s always preferable to stand in pictures, if you happen to be on a chair or a couch when someone comes at you with a camera, sit up straight and cross your legs at the ankles. It’ll be more flattering than not doing anything with those stems.
5. Twist Your Body and Position Your Arms
Ah, the old red carpet trick: Position your body 45 degrees and put the arm closest to the camera on your hip. Then plant one foot slightly in front of the other, point your toe to the camera and place your weight on your back leg.
Ever wonder why every celebrity poses with her camera-facing arm on her hip? It’s because that particular move ensures that her upper arm isn’t smooshed against her body making it look flattened (read: larger). If you find the hand-on-hip pose to be a bit forced, try holding your arms out from your sides ever so slightly.
The Most Perfectly Timed Photos Ever
Photograph by REUTERS/Luke MacGrego (via Reuters Olympics on Facebook)
Photograph by JAY FINE (via The Big Picture)
Photograph via Former_Manc on Reddit
Photograph by Frode Sandbech
Photograph by Florian Schüppel | Florian Schüppel Photography on Facebook
Photograph by ADAM PRETTY (via Photo Blog on NBC News)
Photograph by Liammm on Reddit
Photograph by STEPHANE DUCANDAS (via The Telegraph)
Photograph via Loco Lol
The fine images ever taken with out photoshop
Today vivid facet has accumulated for you works wherein the
combined efforts of mother nature and photographic artists have captured magic moments showing the wondrous variety of current existence and the herbal international.
combined efforts of mother nature and photographic artists have captured magic moments showing the wondrous variety of current existence and the herbal international.
This is what happens if you throw hot tea into the air in Arctic
A galactic tennis ball
Modern dykes, windmills and highways in the Netherlands
Two worlds divided, New York, USA
Just an ordinary day’s building — catching a cloud
Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the birth of Kim Il-sung, North Korea’s founder
Westerdok District, Amsterdam
Sky lantern festival in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Tips and Tricks for Night Photography of the Starry Sky
Tips and Tricks for Night Photography of the Starry Sky
During the last year, I’ve become a big fan of night photography and the night sky. I’ve always enjoyed it but my hometown in Norway doesn’t have the most interesting landscape. So I rarely bothered to go out during night – unless there was a rare show of Northern Lights or meteorite showers. After packing up my stuff and moving to the north of Spain, however, I’ve found myself spending more and more time photographing the stars. What appears pitch black to the naked eye can be beautiful scenery through the camera.
In this article, I’ll share some tips and tricks on how you can photograph the various states of the night sky including The Milky Way, new moon, or northern lights.

Camera Settings for Night Photography
Light is the most important part of photography; without light, there’s no picture to be taken. During the night it is dark and the light is sparse, making it challenging to photograph. In fact, in order to capture an image during the night, you’ll most likely have to sacrifice some image quality – forget about using a narrow aperture and low ISO.
Unlike regular landscape photography, night photography requires less than ideal settings in order to capture enough light to properly expose the scene. Since there’s not a lot of available light, that means opening the aperture, increasing the ISO and lengthening the exposure time (shutter speed).

There isn’t one correct setting for each and every scenario as it depends on many factors (such as the brightness of the moon). But as a rule of thumb, you want to use the widest aperture your lens allows in order to get the sky as detailed as possible. Lenses with an aperture of f/2.8 are widely popular amongst nighttime and astrophotographers and if your lens allows for such an open aperture, this is where you should begin.
ISO and shutter speed
The ISO also needs to be increased quite a lot for night photography. For regular landscape photography, I always stress the importance of shooting with the lowest possible ISO. Even though we still want to shoot with the lowest possible setting we’re now looking at an ISO of at least 1600 at night. It’s not uncommon to use an ISO of 3200 or 6400 during the night. Still, to maintain as much quality as possible, try to use the lowest possible option.

Choosing the shutter speed is slightly more challenging as it depends on the focal length of your lens, but I recommend not going longer than 30 seconds unless you want to photograph star trails (I’ll come back to this later in the article). The 500 Rule is a good guideline when choosing the shutter speed. Basically, divide 500 by the focal length of the lens you’re using and you’ll know the maximum shutter speed you can use (to avoid star trails). If you’re using a crop sensor camera you’ll need to calculate the equivalent focal length of a full-frame lens (for example 20mm on crop sensor = 30mm. 500/30 = 16.6 seconds).
Remember that a tripod is essential for night photography in order to get a sharp image. It’s simply not possible to hold your camera still for several seconds!
Planning to Photograph the Night Sky
Scouting can be hard during the night so it’s often beneficial to have familiarized yourself with the area before going there in the dark. I know this isn’t always possible but the very least use an app such as PhotoPills to learn the phase of the moon, its position, as well as the time of sunrise, sunset, moonrise, moonset and anything else related to your shoot. The more you’ve prepared, the higher the chance you’ll get a great image.

Let’s summarize what you should know before going out photographing:
- - Time of twilight
- - Time of Nautical and Astronomical dark
- - Phase of the moon
- - Moon’s position in the sky
- - Time of moonrise and moonset
- - When The Milky Way is visible (if applicable)
- - The Milky Way’s position (if applicable)
All this information is easy to find in an app such as PhotoPills or by doing a quick search online.
General Ideas for Night Photography
If your goal is photograph stars and the natural night sky, I think it’s fair to guess that you want to see as many stars as possible. In order to get the best possible view of the stars, you’ll need to position yourself at a location that’s away from larger cities and light pollution.

A subtle display of Northern Lights in Lofoten.
Website and maps such as DarkSiteFinder are great resources when searching for areas with less light pollution. If you live close to a major city you’ll probably have to travel a little further than if you live near a small town. There are filters, such as NiSi’s Natural Night Filter, that help reduce the light pollution but it won’t magically remove it all and give you a starry sky – it simply neutralizes the color of the light pollution.
For the most detailed night sky, it’s also ideal to avoid the weeks closest to a full moon. During that period, the sky is brighter and there are fewer stars visible to both the camera and the naked eye. However, that doesn’t mean that you should stay home; there are many interesting subjects during the full moon as well.
The Milky Way
Norway is known for Northern Lights, dark and starry nights, as well as the overall beautiful landscape but what we don’t have is The Milky Way. Let me be a little more specific; the Galactic Center (the brightest most visible part of The Milky Way that you see in most photos) is never visible in Norway – we only see the edges of it. So, you can imagine my excitement every time I get a chance to photograph the Galactic Center and The Milky Way in its most beautiful display.

The techniques for photographing The Milky Way are mostly similar to other types of night photography. You’ll want to use an open aperture, high ISO and a shutter speed of no more than 30 seconds. I find that a slightly higher ISO and a shutter speed of around 25 seconds (when shooting at 14mm @f/2.8) gives the highest amount of detail when photographing The Milky Way. By using a slower shutter speed, the camera starts picking up slight movement in the stars (due to earth’s rotation) and it begins to get blurry.
It’s also best to photograph The Milky Way during the new moon or before the moon has risen. The darker the sky, the more stars you see and the more detailed The Milky Way becomes.
Photographing a Meteor Shower
Whenever there’s a meteor shower, such as the recent Perseids Meteor Shower, I keep my fingers crossed for clear skies. There’s nothing more magical than being outside in the pitch black, looking up at dozens or even hundreds of shooting stars during a span of several hours.

Since most the shooting stars last for only a second or two, it can be hard to capture them in an image. In order to capture as many of them as possible, I set my camera to interval shooting and I let it go continuously. To pick up even the smaller shooting stars I increase the shutter speed slightly to approximately 15 seconds (depends on the brightness of the night).
Photographing the Northern Lights
Northern Lights is a phenomenon that we’re lucky to have in the northern hemisphere. It’s unlike anything else and I can guarantee that once you see it, you’ll want to witness it again.
The challenges when photographing the Northern Lights is that it often moves quite quickly and it can be rather bright. In order to freeze the motion, you’ll need a quicker shutter speed such as 1-10 seconds. Exactly how quick depends on the intensity of the lights. Just keep in mind that if they’re moving quickly, you should use a quicker shutter speed.

Also, pay attention to the histogram as it’s easy to blow out the highlights. Since it’s a bright phenomenon in the otherwise dark night, the contrast can be great. I recommend always exposing for the highlights and if needed take a second exposure for the landscape that you can blend in later during post-processing.
Slow it Down and Photograph Star Trails
Due to the rotation of the earth, your camera registers movement in the stars once the shutter speed becomes too long. This creates a blurry and soft sky and can be quite displeasing to watch.
That being said, every now and then this is something you want to use as an advantage rather than viewing it as a problem. By lengthening the shutter speed to several minutes or even an hour (this lets you use a low ISO and narrow aperture but may result in hot pixels) you’re able to capture what’s known as star trails. This effect can be really interesting but make sure that the shutter speed is long enough so that the stars don’t just look blurry.

Stars over the Sahara desert – image by dPS Editor Darlene Hildebrandt. Series of 30-second exposures over 45 minutes, stacked using StarStax, blended with a couple of light painted images of the tent.
Alternatively, you can capture a series of images using a shorter shutter speed and merge them together in Photoshop or a software such as StarStax.
Full Moon and Bright Moon Phases
As I’ve mentioned previously, nights, when the moon is small, are best for night photography as it’s during this period you’ll see most stars. However, when the moon is up there are still many interesting images to be captured.

First of all, since the moon is a bright source of light, you can get away with using a slightly lower ISO or narrower aperture. It can also be easier to find a composition as the landscape is brighter. Use this light to your advantage and pay attention to the shadows in the landscape. Perhaps the moon lights up a mountain? Perhaps it creates a nice reflection in a lake? During this period, it can be wise to compose your image to include more landscape than sky as that’s where the most interesting things are happening.
Personally, I prefer to photograph the moon when it has a low position in the sky as I find the shadows to be slightly more interesting during that time. Note: This is for the same reasons shooting at sunrise and sunset are best for daytime landscape photography.
Conclusion
Have you tried night photography before? If not, grab your camera and tripod (and maybe a buddy for some company) and get out and give it a go. Share any other night photo tips you have in the comments below as well as your night sky images. We’d love to see them.
By, Christian Hoiberg